Savannakhet or Kaysone Phomvihane is a city in western Laos and the capital of the Savannakhet Province's previously known as Khanthabouli. This is the second-largest city in Laos, after Vientiane. The city is birthtown of Kaysone Phomvihane, former president of Laos, and was named after him in 2005. Although the old French colonial quarter of the town, along the Mekong River-front, is depressed and crumbling, the town's proximity to Thailand's booming economy has brought about new commercial development in the northern part of the town, near both the river crossing and the bus terminal.
The city is an important hub between West (Mukdahan, Thailand) and East (Vietnam), and between North (Vientiane) and South (Pakse).
Like all Lao cities, Kaysone Phomvihane has a mixed population of Lao, Thai, Vietnamese and Chinese, as well as minority peoples from the Lao interior. It has a large 15th century Buddhist temple, Wat Sainyaphum, a Chinese temple, a Catholic church and a mosque. The Second Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge over the Mekong connects to Mukdahan Province in Thailand. The two-lane, 12-meter (39 ft) wide, 1,600-meter (5,250 ft) long bridge, opened to the general public on January 9, 2007.
Climate
Savannakhet features a tropical wet and dry climate, with generally very warm weather throughout the year. The city does feature warmer and cooler periods of the year, with average temperatures ranging from 22 C in January, to 29 C in March. Savannakhet has discernible wet and dry seasons, with the wet season covering April through October and the dry season covering the remaining five months. The city sees on average roughly 1500 mm of precipitation per year.
Get to know:
Travelers visiting Savannakhet are often surprised by its old French colonial architecture and the friendly, sleepy atmosphere of the town which conserves many aspects of Lao traditional culture. The small but blossoming tourist sector offers various eco-trekking programs to the outskirts of town and to preserved forests and other places of interest in neighbouring districts (such as Champhone). The welcoming and generous character of the local people makes you easily feel part of the community. Although recently a large casino was established, Savannakhet has no touristic night-life scene.
Savannakhet probably was founded in the 17th century by forty families who immigrated from Phonsim village around twenty km to the east. It is said that the settlement at the Mekong riverside was called Tahae village, and researchers assume that Buddhist Temple 'Vat Xaiyaphoum' is an important remainder of that era.
France expanded Indochina by obtaining the eastern bank of the Mekong after a border dispute in 1893. Initially the French used the Mekong River as the main street of transport. Soon afterwards a network of water transportation, post & telecommunication facilities and a railway were completed. A road, connecting Savannakhet with Quang Tri (Vietnam), was also established. In the 1920s and 1930s Vietnamese and Chinese people started to settle in Savannakhet. Nowadays, the Chinese and Vietnamese still live in the same parts of the city, while other parts are still redolent of the French administration that was located at the Southern part of town.
Get around
The easiest way to get around Savannakhet is by foot or bicycle. Tuk-tuks are also available around the city and are an easy way to get quickly to a specific location. Be cautious about the fee for the tuk-tuk, and always set the price in advance. Because the minor roads of the districts around Savannakhet are often badly paved, a reliable cheap motorbike for rent in Savannakhet town might be hard to find.
What to see
The Tourist Information office is located between the Mekong riverside and the 'Plaza', the central square of the French historical town. A must visit for those wishing to see the city/area. The office offers many different local walking tours as well as a wide variety of eco tours. They also have a comprehensive free map of the city (extremely important). The staff is attentive and speaks English well. Lin's café (100m north of the same Plaza) is connected to the Tourist Information and offers the same service.
That Ing Hang Stupa - This 16th century stupa is one of the most revered in the country of Laos. Each year in December, many Buddhists travel to this holy site for the annual 'Boun Pha' ceremony. It is located 13 km north-east of Savannakhet. There are two roads that lead to the stupa: the first one is the busy main road to Seno. Tuk Tuk rides should cost 70,000 kip for a round-trip. Far more recommended is the alternative road through the green rural outskirts, passing the Beung Va Lake, which is best experienced by bicycle or motorbike.
Kaysone Phomvihane's House: Part of the Historic tour. See the former Laotian leader's residence.
Wat Xayaphoum - a 16th century temple located in the centre of the city along the bank of the Mekong river. Now serving as both temple and high school for novice monks of Savannakhet. Pee Mai Lao (The Lao New Year celebration) and Boun Suang Huea (boat racing festival) following Buddhist Lent are held here.
Dinosaur Museum: Exhibits dinosaur fossils or 'big lizard bones' as called in Lao. They were excavated from Xonbouly District. Three kinds of dinosaur bones have been discovered; Pode, Iguanodon and Sauropode. It's likely a staff member will show you around and explain the exhibits to you. If you're lucky he'll even take you out the back and show you a pair of French scientists cleaning (?!) a (more or less) complete skeleton. Strangely, photos aren't allowed of them working. The museum opens daily from 08:00 -11:30 and 13:30 -16:30.
Old French colonial buildings. Old French Style buildings can be seen in the central city area, especially around the Catholic Church and the central plaza. These building are heritages from the French colonization of Laos in the mid of 20th-century. You can find a free exhibition about this history on the 2nd floor of Lin's cafe.
UXO SVK is the abbreviation of 'Unexploded Ordnance Savannakhet', an American/Lao organisation. The exhibition found at their office intends to raise awareness among the citizens of Savannakhet, who generally spoken don't care much (not even know) about the severe UXO problems in the Eastern side of their province, which was heavily bombed during the Vietnam War. A lot of UXO accompanied with photographs and information about demining projects can be found here. There is English reading material available as well which is Located south-east of town at Makhaveha rd, next to Mama's Home restaurant.
Thing to chill:
Swimming Pool - As temperatures may get really high in Savannakhet, a swim in the public swimming pool among local children and teenagers is fun, cooling and therefore recommended. On the main road near Nan Hai Hotel.
Savannakhet Tennis Club - (on Khantabuli Road). While the tennis clubhouse may look it needs upgrading, the three courts are in good condition. Bring your own racquets.
Eco-tourism treks advertised in most guesthouses are fantastic. Homestays, forest food, school visits, local guides, etc... Highly recommended. The eco centre has one, two and three days treks. Some of which include visits to the Ho Chi Minh trail and to see the Dinosaur Footprints.
As part of eco-trekking, or just discovered on your own, explore Dong Natad Forest, a 'Provincial Protected Area' which extends to 8,300 hectares and hosts two tribal villages. There is a beautiful lake called 'Nong Lom' in the centre of the forest where you can observe wild birds like teal, butterflies and rare plants. The entrance of the forest is near the That Ing Hang stupa.
Lao Massage at Dok Champa Khao on the main street. A clean, discreet and welcome place comfortable for Westerners. Excellent after a trek.
Just relax in some of the cheap cafe's around, maybe rent a bike and explore this little French colonial town. In the evening catch a beer by the river and take some time out from the road.
Urban teenagers depend on foreigners to practice and improve their English skills. Don't hesitate to visit a classroom and have a chat in either the Sangha High School at Wat Xayaphoum (on Mekong Riverbank) or the TTC (Teacher Training College), which is five km out of town along the road to Seno.
Visit the Eye Hospital Savannakhet, located next to Wat Ponsavangthai. Meet the English speaking eye doctors, bring your collected spectacle frames or financially support cataract surgery for the people of the countryside. Part of this hospital is a vocational center and home of ten blind people who offer Lao Massage for some kip (1h30 min).
Historic Exhibition, Latsaphanit rd, 08:30 - 20:00. Located on the second floor of Lin's Café, this is a private exhibition about the history of the French colonial architecture of the town centre area. Free!
Take a Walking History Tour Lin's Cafe (which is part of the circuit) has a pamphlet that gives you the history of some of Savannakhet's historic buildings. This is easily done in a few hours with a bicycle or on foot and gives you a good idea of the richness and cultural diversity of Savannakhet's architectural history.
Savan Vegas Casino, Nongdeune Village, Kaishonephomvihan District, Savan Vegas Hotel & Casino has more than 500 slot.
Nong Phapra (Turtle Lake)
This is a natural lake in Ban Donedeng (“Donedeng village“). It is believed that Nong Phapra, Turtle Lake, Savannakhet Province, Laosghosts in the spiritualhouse protect the turtles in the lake. There are many turtles of different sizes and ages living in the lake and they can easily be seen. Local residents also sell food that you can feed the turtles with. Also on sale are locally made turtle-shaped key holders which are sold in front of the entrance of the lake. From Savannakhet City you need to take Route 11 to the east for about 55km. Once you reach the town of Ban Kengkok (“kengkok village”), continue east for another 7km to Ban Taleo, from there turn right and continue for another 5km.
Events:
That Phon Festival
Boun Pha That Phonh is a festival taking three days and three nights, held at full moon in February at That Phon, a sacred stupa in Phon Village. There are different exhibitions of traditional goods, sports, dance, songs, etc. Local people offer rice balls to the stupa and local monks.
Heuan Hin Festival
Boun Heuan Hin is a festival held at Heuan Hin ('Stone House') in the middle of March, another important sacred place, dating back to Khmer Empire. This annual festival is organised to respect ancestors. As part of the ceremony Buddhist monks make offerings to the persons that built the Stone House. Visitors enjoy shopping of local products. At night there is a traditional dance called lamvong, where men and women dance together in a big circle.
Lao New Year Festival
Boun Pee Mai Lao. This festival is held all over Laos, from 14-16 April. It celebrates the passing of the old year and welcoming the new. In Savannakhet the biggest festivals are held in the city. There is a Miss Lao New Year contest; the winner parades through the town on the back of an artificial animal. Some families organize baci ceremonies, big arches made of rice plants in order to show their respect to the earth and sky spirits as well as to the land spirits who facilitate rice production. People splash or pour fragrant water with flowers to other people passing by, to wash bad things out from their bodies.
Rocket Festival
Bounpavet (Elephant Parade) and Boun Bangfai (Rocket Festival) are held in Champhone district (55 km from Savannakhet) at the end of April to early May. There are many activities including traditional dancing, artificial elephant and horse riding and men wearing traditional Lao women clothes and cosmetics. Each village prepares a rocket and a rocket competition is held. The village with the highest rocket launch, wins. This competition is held for showing appreciation to the Payathan, deities who give rain for successful agriculture.
Boat Racing Festival
Boun Suang Heua is annually organized to express people's appreciation to the Mekong River as source of their life. It is held at mid-October, at the last full moon of the Buddhist Lent (rains retreat). The ceremonies take place at the Mekong River bank and each temple. Vat Xayaphoum is the main temple. People make Kathin offerings to the temples and temple parades and traditional dances are being organized. Long boats, made out of bamboo and banana trees, are filled with offerings like cakes, foods, flowers and candles. On the first day around 11:00 a boat racing ceremony starts at the river bank. Prior to this race, Lao and Thai river banks welcome each other boats.
Ing Hang Stupa Festival
In December, Boun Pha That Ing Hang is visited by people from all over Laos and Thailand. This festival is organized to show respect to Buddha and the people who built the stupa. People make offerings, Khanmarkbeng, bringing flowers and small towers made of banana leaves. Nuns who are around the stupa are available to give blessings by tying cotton strings around the visitors’ wrists. ts, 100 table games and sport betting facilities.
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