Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam. It is a fascinating blend of East and West, combining traditional Sino-Vietnamese motifs with French flair. It is largely unscathed from the decades of war, and is now going through a building boom, making it a rapidly developing city in Southeast Asia.
Quoc Tu Giam
The first institution of learning in Vietnam, Quoc Tu Giam, was founded here in the 11th century. Nine hundred years later, the first western-style universities in Vietnam were also founded in Hanoi. The city is one of the leading centers of scientific study and research in the country. Hanoi retains much of its older charm of bygone eras, despite the battles that have raged over it; conflict had the side effect of making it largely oblivious to modern architecture, and as a result, few buildings in the city center area are higher than five stories.
The Old Quarter
The Old Quarter is second only to Hoi An for uninterrupted stretches of colonial and pre-colonial architecture, well-preserved on dense warrens of narrow, wonderfully atmospheric streets. It trades the commercial boom and sprawl of Hochiminh City in the South for a more understated charm, worth enjoying for an extra day or two, and with countless transport options and travel agents, it makes a perfect base for exploration of the North. As you walk along the street, you may find that people start talking to you. It is a cultural norm there to make conversation with strangers.
A Bird-Eye View of Hanoi City
They might ask you where you are from and other general questions. It takes a while to get used to that. However, there are times when you find this friendliness extremely helpful, such as when you are lost or need help. The Tourist Information Center can provide a fairly useful map although bewilderingly, the blow-up of the Old Quarter is missing, making it useless in that part of town. The Center also offers as well as limited free internet and English-language advice albeit, they aren't without bias. There are self-help interactive screen information booths around the Old Quarter.
Vietnam State Bank
The climate is tropical, with wet and hot weather. But due to the city's latitude, temperatures drop drastically in the wintertime and the wind chill and dampness means winter weather can feel cold. If possible, avoid the summer months of June to August, as the city turns into a sweltering sauna with little to no wind.
What to see
The Vietnam Women’s Museum
Vietnam Women’s Museum
The Vietnam Women’s Museum delivers a beautifully presented tribute to the women of Vietnam across the ages. There are plenty of historical contexts alongside a wealth of information on today’s more modern Vietnamese woman. Inside the museum there is lots of narrative as women of the rice paddy fields, service workers, street vendors, female business leaders, academics and mothers are all well-represented. Additionally, there is plenty of information on everyday life including marriage, family life, fashion and life changing rituals.
Interestingly, there are also exhibits on the part women played in Vietnam’s Wars. Displays are very well presented in a storytelling format with signs also in English and French. Historic documentation including Taoist books of the Dao people and wedding cards from the Kinh community will give visitors an in-depth insight into better understanding the women of Vietnam. Photographs and film footage documenting the life of heroic mothers during wartime are moving exhibits that should not be missed. Vietnam Women’s Museum in Hanoi features displays across five floors delivered over three sections – women in family, women in history and women’s fashions.
There are more than 1,000 artifacts on display depicting the many faces and changing roles of Vietnamese women. The fashion section is full of jewelry and skillfully crafted clothing, including batik and woven garments. Visitors to the fashion floor can observe the earrings of ethnic Mong women and bracelets worn by Co Tu women. In addition to the permanent displays, there are also regular special exhibitions at the museum which often tackle hard-hitting contemporary women’s issues such as human trafficking.
Ba Vi National Park
Ba Vi National Park
Ba Vi National Park is one of Vietnam’s most famous areas of outstanding natural beauty and is centered around a three-peaked mountain jutting steeply out of the landscape. The national park offers a great escape from the city with cool fresh mountain air in a mystical atmospheric backdrop of clouds, jungle and tropical rainforest.
Mountainous Area
The three mountain summits are Dinh Vua, Tan Vien, and Ngoc Hoa. Together they form a three humped crest which is often obscured by clouds at the highest point due to the varied climate at the park. Pilgrims and tourists alike usually make the walk to the summit of the Tan Vien peak where an 11th sacred century shrine stands in memory of the Mountain God. There are also superb tropical forest views and vistas all the way to Hanoi to be enjoyed from this peak.
Da River
The fast-flowing Da River is located on one side of the national park; there are also several streams running through the park. Originally created as a hill station during the French Colonial Era, Ba Vi National Park has always been an excellent source of medicinal plants for the Dao ethnic group. Walking and hiking opportunities are popular in this area of lush tropical foliage with plenty of forest trails and mountain slopes. In addition there is also a bird garden and an orchid garden, although the main attraction is the temple. It takes about 30 minutes of hard climb to make it to the temple but you are additionally well rewarded with panoramic views of the Red River Valley and beyond.
Harmony of Nature
The outlook is best from April through to December when even Hanoi can be seen in the distance. The resort is built in the style of an ancient palace and reminiscent of the houses once found in the Vietnamese northern delta region. Ba Vi National Park takes about two hours to reach by car. The ride to the park can be a bit bumpy and it’s best avoiding the park in the rainy season when roads may be slippery – especially the hiking trails. The road leading to the summit’s car park is very steep and narrow although efforts to widen the road are on-going.
Old Quarter
Selling in the Old Quarter
Packed with charming colonial architecture, Buddhist temples and pagodas, the Old Quarter, located near Hoan Kiem Lake in Hoan Kiem District, is Hanoi’s major commercial district. Packed with scooters, bicycles and cars swarming around pedestrians like a school of fish there are many sidewalk vendors and people simply out for a stroll and the popular Old Quarter is no exception so walking around this district is distinct from a leisurely stroll in the park.
Lots of Vehicles
Visitors have no choice but to face the traffic in the local style but the experience of exploring the historical area is a must-do and truly well worth it. Its heart and soul is exposed in the ancient commercial streets which are named after their original businesses dating back about 1,000 years. Though most of the specialties (cotton, jewelry, herbs, and silk) have changed over time and have been replaced with a variety of modern-day commodities and services, visitors can still appreciate some of the original goods as well as get a feel of rich old Vietnamese customs.
Tourists Visiting the Old Quarter
The preserved shop-houses that lie along these roads were built a little over a century ago and were constructed in their long and narrow style to avoid being hit by high taxes. Each has a street-facing facade and multiple courtyards inside. The front part of the buildings is where trading takes place while the family occupies the rest. Though one shop-house was meant to be for one family, nowadays it is more common to see quite a few families jammed in under one roof. Expect to find plenty of hip café, bars, restaurants, bakeries, boutique shops and art galleries in this historical area.
Hang Da Market
Hang Da Market
An eclectic array of stalls fills the three-storey Hang Da Market located in the heart of Hanoi’s central business district. Smaller than Dong Xuan and offering a more select product range, this is the place to come for imported wine, flowers, second-hand clothes and fabrics. The outside of the building is also very picturesque with its white multi-perforated facade and it’s expected that the whole interior may one day change from market stalls to boutique outlets. Hang Da is a great place to pick up one-off clothing items including skirts, dresses and coats and some of the best buys are stylish second-hand clothes which are pretty much all in perfect condition. The market is best visited first thing in the morning when the traders are unpacking for the day and best avoided over weekends or during the midday heat. Take a break when you shop on the first floor where you can buy some freshly cooked Vietnamese snacks.
A Bird-Eye View of Hang Da Market
Stepping in off the street you’ll discover fresh produce including plenty of fruit and vegetables and cooked meat, most of which is imported. The second and third floors are packed with a superb selection of clothes and fabrics with ceramic and pottery stalls dotted throughout. The clothes on offer surprisingly come in all sizes because the most of the clothes here are imported from across the globe including Japan, Europe, Korea and even the US; so you are pretty much guaranteed to find something you to suit. Look for clothes that are already hanging as these are usually the newest ones. Traditional long Vietnamese dresses known as Ao Dais are a particularly good buy at Hang Da; rummage for ones with embroidery or intricate weaving made from real silk. Artistic rice paper products are also a great purchase, transformed into table lamps, notebooks, paintings and cards. Bargaining is not only advised but absolutely expected when shopping at Hang Da. Hang Da is located on 1 Pho Hang Da at the intersection with Yen Thai. There is also a large shop lined with bamboo cages which are filled with exotic birds on the north corner where Hang Da meets Hang Dieu, which is also worth a look.
Maison Centrale
Maison Centrale
Maison Centrale in Hanoi, also known as Hoa Lo Prison and the Hanoi Hilton housed Vietnamese revolutionaries and American POW – American prisoner of war - during the Vietnam War. The fortress was once a vast colonial-style prison, most of which was torn down in the 1990s. Visiting today you will find the small southern section resting alongside a hotel and office complex. The prison is still a popular tourist attraction for those on the war history trail. Official records claim inmates numbered in their hundreds although it was not unknown for up to 2,000 prisoners to be crammed into a space reserved for 600 inmates.
Maison Centrale Memorial Wall
Around 200-300 inmates were captured American pilots brought to Maison Centrale for interrogation and torture, it was the American prisoners who sarcastically gave the jail its nickname Hanoi Hilton. Hoa Lo Prison today portrays a different side of the horror stories told by former inmates despite the prominently displayed shackles hanging on the walls. Much of the emphasis is on the Vietnamese revolutionaries some of whom were executed at the prison. The American POWs have well documented their own experiences, little of which is available at Maison Centrale today. Situated in the center of Hanoi close to the French Quarter, Maison Centrale was French built for housing Vietnamese political campaigners for independence and was completed in 1913.
Prisoners in Maison Centrale
These campaigners were captured and usually shackled to the floor where they could easily be beaten by guards. Vietnamese prisoners were also executed here by use of a guillotine which today is displayed near the prisons infamous death row. Today there is little evidence of the time spent here by the former American inmates although a great deal has been written by the survivors including their experiences in the much feared blue room. The blue room was used for the interrogation and torture of new prisoners and visitors can still see the room today although there is nothing on display here of the horror stories told by American POW’s which included former American presidential nominee John McCain.
Hanoi Opera House
Hanoi Opera House
The beautiful Hanoi Opera House was built in 1911 by the then ruling French. It’s a phenomenal piece of neo-classical French architecture featuring Gothic themes on the doors and domes with pillars, shuttered windows, balconies and a glass room. Musicians, actors and dancers play to a 600-strong audience delivering powerful operatic and classical performances, making it a very popular theatrical attraction. The Hanoi Opera House is the biggest theatre in Vietnam and speaks volumes as historical and cultural evidence of Vietnam under French rule.
Interior
The interior is even more magnificent than the exterior with many arguing it is aesthetically even more appealing than the Paris Opera House. Visitors today will be entertained at this architectural landmark which features a range of events including local Vietnamese opera, traditional folk music, ballets and many international concerts. Vietnamese entertainers perform songs, classical music, dance, drama and contemporary performances from superstars. The Hanoi Opera House offers a superb setting in which to see any live show. The stage is three-meter high and there are three stories in total so a wonderful experience is guaranteed regardless of your seating arrangements.
French Architecture
The Hanoi Opera House is located near Hoan Kiem Lake on August Revolution Square. There are superb views of the opera house at the Hilton Opera House hotel which is very close by. You will need to purchase tickets to see the inside of the opera house although there are usually a host of concerts to choose from including drama, ballet and symphonies in addition to opera. The Hanoi Opera House is also the first choice for international meetings and conferences so check online when you are visiting to ensure a performance is scheduled.
Hanoi Zoo
Thu Le Lake
Formerly known as Botanical Garden, Hanoi Zoo is home to about 800 animals with over 90 different species on exhibition, including big cats, monkeys and reptiles. The zoo is located within Thu Le Park, a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi central. The park also features a lake with pedal boats for kids to enjoy and an ornamental garden for visitors. The zoo is striving to improve facilities and expertise to bring it on par with other zoos throughout the world and is currently undergoing a conservation-and-breeding program of animals from Vietnam and other destinations believed to be under threat.
Sambar
The animals on display are located throughout the park meaning you can enjoy the landscaped surroundings as you visit the zoo. There is also a fun park for kids located close by. Animals on display at Hanoi Zoo include a variety of native species such as the Vietnam pheasant displayed with information signs in Vietnamese, English and French. A local competition was held to name the tiger with over 10,000 school children submitting entries. Other big cats on display include the Indochinese tiger, Siberian tiger and clouded leopard.
Polar Bear
There are also plenty of monkeys including lots of gibbons swinging from ropes and tires in a specially built monkey enclosure. Asian elephants are present on the edge of the lake and there is also a small aquarium with turtles and tropical fish. Families visiting Hanoi Zoo can take a rest in a shaded picnic area, kids will also enjoy a spin on the lake in a swan peddle boat. When you’ve finished browsing round the zoo and surrounding gardens you can stop by the souvenir store and purchase an ornamental plant such as a bonsai tree.
Hoan Kiem Lake and Ngoc Son Temple
Hoan Kiem Lake
Peaceful and quiet, the lake surrounds Ngoc Son Temple, a pagoda sitting in the center on a small island. The temple attracts many visitors and was built in commemoration of the 13th century military leader Tran Hung Dao who was renowned for his bravery in the battle against the Yuan Dynasty. Homage is also paid to scholar Van Xuong and Confucian master Nguyen Van Sieu. The island on which the temple is built is known as Jade Island and is accessible by the iconic Huc Bridge or Rising Sun Bridge which is a charming scarlet-painted wooden bridge of classical Vietnamese design. The pagoda is also guarded by two towering posts decorated with Chinese writing. The lake and temple are probably the most famous places in Hanoi city in which to rest and enjoy the view and are a great place to sit back and watch the locals.
Ngoc Son Temple
Ngoc Son Temple was built in the 18th century on Jade Island in the centre of the ‘Lake of the Returned Sword' or Hoan Kiem Lake. Legend describes how an emperor was once given a magical sword which helped him defeat the Chinese Ming Dynasty and in doing so saw the return of the Golden Turtle God to the lake. Today Turtle Tower stands close to the lake in memory of this legend. There are also endangered large soft-shell turtles swimming in the lake, and to see one of these gentle giants is considered very auspicious. Inside the pagoda are a large bronze bust and other deities. There are altars dedicated to Tran Hung Dao, some ancient artifacts including ceramics and a preserved specimen of a giant turtle found in the lake weighing 250kg. The lake and the temple offer plenty of trees and shaded spots in which to escape the busy city streets.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Ho Chi Minh is probably the most popular leader of Vietnam and known to his people as Uncle Ho. His body is preserved here in a glass case at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum in central Hanoi. For visitors, a trip to Uncle Ho’s final resting place can be an extraordinary experience as it is not just an average attraction it’s a part of a unique history. Started in 1973, the construction of the mausoleum was modeled on Lenin's mausoleum in Russia and was first open to the public in 1975. The granite building meant a great deal for many locals as it ensures that their beloved leader lives on forever. Security is tight and visitors should dress with respect and everyone has to deposit their bags and cameras before getting in. Visitors are not allowed to stop and hold the constant queue up as the place is constantly busy. Uncle Ho’s remains are sent yearly to Russia for maintenance therefore the mausoleum is closed usually from October onwards.
Imperial Citadel of Thang Long
Thang Long Citadel
The large central sector of the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long in Hanoi was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site just in time for Hanoi’s millennial anniversary in 2010. The ancient site was the political center of the country for 13 consecutive centuries and served as the capital of Vietnam for eight centuries. The central sector of the imperial citadel includes relics in Hanoi Citadels and an interesting archaeological area at 18 Hoang Dieu Street. Excavation work took place from 2002 to 2004 at the Thang Long Royal Citadel site and as a result many artifacts and items from the 6th to the 20th century belonging to the Ly, Nguyen, Tran, Le eras were found.
Flag Tower
Foundations of old palaces, relics, ancient roads, ponds and wells were discovered and as a result the famous Hanoi Flag Tower on Dien Bien Phu Street in Ba Dinh District, a renovated old stone fortress, is popular with visitors. On top of these discoveries, archaeologists also found bronze coins, ceramics and pottery from China and many places in Asia, all of which demonstrate a close trading relationship in the area. Visitors should head for the display room that features interesting excavated items as well as mockups of the citadel itself.
One Pillar Pagoda
One Pillar Pagoda
Rising from one pillar in the center of an elegantly square shaped lotus pond, The One Pillar Pagoda is said to represent a lotus flower growing up out of the water. Built between the years of 1028 and1054 during the reign of Emperor Ly Thai Tong of the Ly Dynasty, the One Pillar Pagoda is one of Vietnam’s most iconic temples. The shrine inside the pagoda is dedicated to the Vietnamese Buddhist deity Quan Am. The little temple is constructed from wood based on a single stone pillar crafted into the shape of a lotus blossom and has been rebuilt several times, most recently in 1955 when the base was destroyed during the French evacuation. The pagoda is often used as a symbol for Hanoi and remains one of the city’s most revered sights in a beautifully tranquil garden setting with benches provided for comfortable contemplation. The shrine inside the pagoda is dedicated to the Vietnamese Buddhist deity Quan Am with her effigy nestled inside the tiny three-square-meter temple.
Perfume Pagoda
Perfume Pagoda
The Perfume Pagoda, known locally as Chua Huong, is at the center of a very revered and sacred site featuring a maze of mainly Buddhist temples built into the limestone cliffs of Huong Tich. At the heart of this complex lies the Perfume Pagoda in the Huong Tich Cave. The mountain foothills are an area of great natural and spiritual beauty filled with streams, tropical plants and temples. There are many pagodas to visit, each offering a different shrine, most of which are Buddhist although one or two are animist. The Perfume Pagoda attracts pilgrims and tourists seeking good luck from the stalagmites and stalactites inside the cave which have been named according to the individual blessing they can bestow.
Chua Huong Festival
The entrance to the vast and mysterious Perfume Pagoda and Huong Tich Cave resembles that of an open dragon’s mouth and is decorated in ancient Chinese letters which translate to first grade cave of the South World. Inside the cave are many statues carved from green stone which decorate an intricate shrine, including one of Lord Buddha and another of the Buddhist goddess Quan Am. Smooth stalactites and stalagmites also fill the cave which are constantly touched by pilgrims believing them to deliver miracles and good luck. You will find the temple very cool inside and also very busy especially during the days of the Chua Huong festival which lasts from January to April. It is well worth taking time to stop and enjoy the view en-route to the temple as the scenery is very interesting, dotted with fruit trees including apricots and medicinal herbs grown by local farmers. The journey to the Perfume Pagoda is itself an interesting experience.
Thang Long Water Puppet Theater
Water Puppet
The world-famous Thang Long Water Puppet Theater in Hanoi has its roots in an art form that dates back to the 11th century. The tradition of water puppet theatre stems from a time when rice paddy fields were flooded and villagers would make entertainment by standing in the waist-deep water with the puppets performing over the water. Using large rods to support the puppets it appeared as if they were moving across the water with the puppeteers hidden behind a screen. This tradition is unique to North Vietnam but has recently found fame on stages all over the world, so it’s a rare treat to see the puppets perform in their original location at the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre. Performances are accompanied by a Vietnamese orchestra playing traditional music using drums, wooden bells, horns, bamboo flutes and cymbals.
Vietnamese Orchestra
There are also authentic Vietnamese operatic songs telling the story that is being acted out by the puppets. Most of the shows recount Vietnamese folk tales and legends with topics including the celebration of the rice harvest depicted in a humorous fashion. Shows at this modern theatre are performed in a pool of water as the stage for the puppets. The puppets are controlled by no more than eight puppeteers hiding behind a bamboo screen. The renowned Thang Long Water Puppet show is considered to be one of the cultural highlights of Northern Vietnam dating back to a tradition that first started in the Red River Delta. Today’s performances usually include a number of short sketches rather than one long story, taking the audience on a journey of ancient village life, agricultural harvests and dances of mythical creatures. Most shows also feature the famous Legend of the Restored Sword of King Le which tells the tale of Hoan Kiem Lake and the giant tortoise. The live music plays an integral part of the show with singers often shouting words of encouragement to the puppets. Thang Long Water Puppet Theater is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Hanoi.
What to eat
La Vong Grilled Fish Pie
La Vong Grilled Fish Pie
This is a specialty of Hanoi and more precisely of Cha Ca Road. While the guest sit down at the table, the waiter starts laying here some seasoning cowls: a cowl of prawn paste mixed up with lemon and a few drops of liquor to give it flagrancy and decorated by a few slices of red fresh pimento, a plate of grilled ground nuts of gold yellow color, various species of mint vegetables from Lang village, onions in small white slices having the form of tuberose. Added to this is a plate of soft noodle in thin small and white threads. To many customers, the sight of such seasoning already greatly stimulates their appetite. Grilled fish are usually chosen from certain species of fish. The fish must be carefully prepared before grilling. Galingale and saffron must be ground mixed with water and filtered through a piece of clean cloth in order to obtain a solution to which is added some drops of rice ferment and fish sauce of good quality. Then, the fish meat is immersed in this solution for two hours before grilling. Grilling must be done by means of pairs of bamboo tongs placed on a stove of burning charcoals. The fish meat must be grilled on oath sides and brought in to the guests when it is duly grilled. As a dish, La Vong grilled fish pie is indeed a remarkable culinary invention.
Grilled Green Rice and Green Rice Cakes
Green Rice Cakes
Initially, green rice cakes were wedding cakes and they were also designed to replace the wedding cards announcing the wedding. The cake is made from green (unripe) glutinous rice which is stir-fried with fat and sugar, while its core is made of well pounded green beans (peas), a few slices of coconut white lining and a bit of sugar. It is made into a square cake which is wrapped in green, banana leaves and tied with red- colored bamboo strings - the color of threads used to unite the bride and the groom on marriage day. Green rice cakes are produced in many places, but Hanoi surpasses all over localities in fame over this item. Grilled green rice is made from green (unripe) glutinous rice which is sit-fried, then pounded and sifted. After the operation is completed the grilled green rice is preserved in lotus leaves which help to preserve the paddy flagrancy to which is added the flagrancy of lotus. Grilled green rice is produced in many parts of the country. But the best one comes from Vong Village, Hanoi City. Everybody follows the same methods, but Vong village has found and applied a formula which is kept secret - thanks to which its products surpass all others in quality and no confusion can be made between its grilled green rice and that of other places. The grilled green rice can also be tasty when eaten with banana. It can also produce a tasty sweet soup if cooked with water and a moderate dose of sugar.
Rice Rolls
Rice Rolls
Rice Rolls (banh cuon) are produced everywhere in Vietnam. But those made in Hanoi have their specific characteristics. Fifty years ago, rice rolls experienced a new improvement: minced meat, prawn and mush rooms mixed with fish sauce and pepper were stirred and fried for a few seconds and then wrapped in rice rolls which were then kept warm in a steamer. The rolls were then served along with fish sauce seasoned with lemon, chilly. Thus, "Hanoi rice rolls", as they were called, were well appreciated not only because of their taste but also because of their smell. At present, the vendors in Hanoi produced their rice sheets right on the soot and rolled them with the readily prepared core of meat and ingredients. Then plates of rice rolls are served to customers, therefore those who would like to take a big quantity of rice rolls must wait for more than a few minutes. But gourmets are always ready to do so.
Noodle Soup – Pho
Pho
You can have "Pho" everywhere in Vietnam but there is something special in the "Pho" of Hanoi. Each "Pho" shop has a particular lay-out, attached to a string right in front of the shop are a small bundle of onions with leaves as green as young paddy plants, some pieces of fresh and soft beef, some of them duly cooked or undercooked, some cartilage, some pieces of fat. The standing vendor continuously cuts the rice sheets and meats, and sometimes opens the lid of a big cot in order to pour the soup into the noodles bowls. Yet, to say the truth, "Pho" fans do not easily step into any shop found on the way. A handful of rice sheets cut into slices, some pieces of onion cut thin, some green mint vegetables some thin slices of yellow ginger, some red slices of fresh pimento. To them, enjoying "Pho" is indeed a process of inquiry and experiments, which in the end would make each of them or many of them regular and faithful customers of certain shop.
Vegetable Rolls
Vegetable Rolls
In ancient days, this is a dish prepared and eaten inside each Hanoi family on New Year Day. And even nowadays, there are no ambulatory vendors or shops specialized in it. This dish comprises the following ingredients: stirred and fried prawns with onions, boiled and sliced cork fat and lean meat, beets in pickles, mint vegetables, refuse of fermented rice for preparing liquor stir - fried with honey or sugar and mixed with soybean jam, whole plants of green onions duly boiled, and soft noodles cut into small slices. Before eating, all the above-mentioned ingredients must be picked and wrapped in a rather large piece of lettuce which is tied by a coiled plant of fresh onion. The whole lump to be swallowed in a mouthful would give you a sense of soft delight.
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